We have previously spoken about the inspiration of our Shikra Pendant, but we have not shared with you its manufacturing process.
Did you know that an apparently simple result like this requires some ‘geometrical magic’? The reason is that setting a watch movement like this one is not so easy as it could seem because it is asymmetric: due to its wider base (the watch face), a mere parallel side is not useful to achieve a perfect adjustment.
This means that we have to take into account its inclination, following the same procedure used to create crown and collet settings. Let’s sum it up:
- Draw an accurate side view of the watch using real measurements in a piece of paper.
- Extend the sides to meet, set a compass centered in the meeting point and draw an arc in the superior and inferior sides of the watch. That will be a cone pattern.
- Cut the cone pattern in paper and glue it on a sterling silver sheet. Cut the pattern in silver with a jeweler’s saw.
- Bend the cone side, close it and solder it.
- True up the cone on a mandrel to give it its final shape.
The result of following these steps carefully is a bezel that can be exactly adjusted to get the following result:
This pendant requires the use of traditional silversmithing techniques such as melting, casting, rolling, soldering, sawing and more. You can learn more about it visiting its website: ‘Shikra Pendant | Raj Collection by Decimononic’.
If you have found this blog post interesting, you will probably like this one: ‘Handmade Steampunk fine jewelry: what does that mean (part 2)’. Stay on top of future updates by subscribing to our newsletters and rss feed, and feel free to share your feedback with us!
JF Alfaya
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